The Last Supper in Lima – Vegan Chorizo Pizza of Course

And lo they came down from the Andean mountains…to smog afflicted Lima, and didn’t see the sun for three days. For our Last Supper in Lima we thought we’d do something non-traditional, without a single figure of catholic idolatry in sight. So we nipped along to our fave vegan cafe in Magdalena del Mar – the excellent ‘Sinfonia vegana‘ on Jr Junin, 685 (website and FB) – for a couple of vegan pizzas. The ‘Espanola’ with the chorizo, and the ‘Campestre’ with seitan. Followed up with some luscious vegan cake, and washed down with a herbal infusion. Yum!
We’ll shortly be leaving south America in peace and nipping back to our own ‘planet’ for a bit. But there’s still plenty of stories to tell and comments to be made on where we’ve been and what we’ve seen here, so the blogging will continue…here’s a few pieces lined up:
– Is there true memory & justice in post-Pinochet Chile?
– The Valley of the Moon and human erosion (Bolivia)
– Chased down the Devil’s Molar by a storm (Bolivia)
– The Sea
– La Paz – the jewel in Bolivia’s communist crown?
– What truth and justice in Peru after Shining Path and state oppression?
– History and tragedy in Ayacucho (Peru)
– Six weeks in the navel of the world (Peru)
– So who the bloody hell were the Inca? (Peru)
– Will ayahuasca change the world? (Peru)
and maybe a few more…but if you are bored in the meantime check out our posts on Street Art in Bolivia and Chile. Salud!

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Back to Peru for some hummus, roll-ups and ancient fishing boats

In early May we got out of Chile, and came back to Peru to check out some more pre-Inca history up on the north coast near Trujillo & Huanchaco – the Moche & Chimu cultures, and some sea going reed fishing boats, or rafts, called ‘caballitos de totora’ (or ‘de mar’), constructed using ancient craft skills dating back several thousand years and known only to a few. These boats are clearly linked to the Moche & Chimu cultures, and possibly earlier.

However they’ve moved with the times as you can see in the fotos, and now use polystyrene blocks to help float the boats, not something available in these parts two thousand years ago. Although the paddle or oar remains very basic, just a long bamboo pole cut in half lengthways. It looks hard work on the hands…but it seems to do the trick though as they negotiate their way out to sea through decent sized waves, and eventually back in again. The sea here looks and is cold, but the weather isn’t, even now in the autumn – a good 25 degrees minimum most days, and too hot on other days to even sit in the sun for long. Continue reading

Chicken Bum and Fucking House – what´s this?

Blimey what´s this in #Cochabamba…a new dance craze for Bolivia & south America perhaps? Well NO actually, just some bizarrely named cafes and restaurantes!
We have no idea why these places have the names they have, or if their owners are at all conscious of the implications? Clearly the authorities have no concerns, but one can´t imagine seeing these in the UK.
Being veggies we´ve not been in either to check them out, as one thing that´s for sure is that the menus are for meat eaters. Indeed in the towns & cities of Bolivia that we’ve seen, the consumption of chickens in particular, by the millions, reigns supreme. Be they roasted, grilled or however else you cook them, the pavements and cafes/restaurants are full of them.

However we cannot complain – Cochabamba has a decent range of veggie/vegan places! Guided by the Happy Cow website, and our own wanderings, we found a decent selection in the slightly alternative (bohemian?) area around calle Espana & Ecuador near the centre. Special mentions for Tulasi 2, on calle Junin corner with Colombia (4 course lunch menu for 20BOB or under 3 quid), and the best we found was MENTA on calle Espana (3 course lunch menu for 21BOB plus a selection of fine other dishes day & night for 20-35 BOB…even some decent humus with falafel). Yum Yum, no need to go hungry here!
Meanwhile here´s those strange names in all their full venue gory glory…YUK!
Continue reading

#potd: menu del dia vegeteriano en Arequipa

menudeldiaOur lucky run of finding more than enough veggie or vegan options continues on from Urubamba & Cusco to Arequipa. Here we’ve found at least 6 places within a 5-20minute walk of our hostel, located just north of the central area. This was Friday’s menu del dia at Omphalos, costing just S/.10 (about £2.50), and they’ve been our fave venue so far. Continue reading