The Last Supper in Lima – Vegan Chorizo Pizza of Course

And lo they came down from the Andean mountains…to smog afflicted Lima, and didn’t see the sun for three days. For our Last Supper in Lima we thought we’d do something non-traditional, without a single figure of catholic idolatry in sight. So we nipped along to our fave vegan cafe in Magdalena del Mar – the excellent ‘Sinfonia vegana‘ on Jr Junin, 685 (website and FB) – for a couple of vegan pizzas. The ‘Espanola’ with the chorizo, and the ‘Campestre’ with seitan. Followed up with some luscious vegan cake, and washed down with a herbal infusion. Yum!
We’ll shortly be leaving south America in peace and nipping back to our own ‘planet’ for a bit. But there’s still plenty of stories to tell and comments to be made on where we’ve been and what we’ve seen here, so the blogging will continue…here’s a few pieces lined up:
– Is there true memory & justice in post-Pinochet Chile?
– The Valley of the Moon and human erosion (Bolivia)
– Chased down the Devil’s Molar by a storm (Bolivia)
– The Sea
– La Paz – the jewel in Bolivia’s communist crown?
– What truth and justice in Peru after Shining Path and state oppression?
– History and tragedy in Ayacucho (Peru)
– Six weeks in the navel of the world (Peru)
– So who the bloody hell were the Inca? (Peru)
– Will ayahuasca change the world? (Peru)
and maybe a few more…but if you are bored in the meantime check out our posts on Street Art in Bolivia and Chile. Salud!


Colca Canyon, Peru – where the condor flies




A visit to the Colca Canyon in Peru’s Andes is well worth the effort, even if you don’t actually get to see a condor fly by! The stunning beauty of the landscape in this region makes the trip well worth it, from snow-capped mountain peaks & rugged mountainsides, to lush fertile valleys and the near-death experience of Peru’s mountain roads.

canyon1The fotos here were taken near the ‘Mirador del Condor‘ (or condor viewpoint), which we are told is at the canyon’s deepest point, of some 1.2km down, of very steep sides – making it arguably the world’s deepest canyon!? The Mirador is at a height of some 3400m above sea level, and is surrounded by mountains reaching upto 6000+m, some of which remain actively volcanic, which is why we were quite literally up in the clouds at times (fortunately in a coach) – giving the whole area a quite mystical feel, as the ground touches the sky, and who knows what occurs hidden in the clouds?
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#potd: Sea salt at 3400m in the Andes


This gallery contains 7 photos.

The Salineras de Maras, or the saltpans of Maras, are a geological freak of nature found in the Andes above the Urubamba (or Vilcanota) valley, at a height of 3400m above sea level. Which is a pretty weird place to … Continue reading

#potd: Abancay prison rules

abancay-rulesWe arrived in Abancay this weekend, after an unpleasant overnight 9 hour bus ride from Nazca. One of the first things we saw whilst wandering through the town centre was the Instituto Nacional Penitenciario (INPE) Abancay, at Ave Diaz Barcenas 104. Plastered up onto the outside walls by the entrance, were the long & detailed Prison Rules for Visitors. These set out what visitors can & cannot wear (ie no shoes with more than a 2cm thick sole; no shoes with laces; no red clothing!), and what they can & cannot bring in when visiting (ie no electrical goods, no cameras or phones, what sort of foods etc etc). We saw a number of visitors (men only) going in & out with food and probably bags of clothing/washing, some leaving were putting their belts back onto their trousers.

We came to Abancay to get some altitude acclimatisation before going higher up into the Andes, as so far we’ve been pretty much at sea level in Peru. Abancay is at around 2400m, is the capital of Abancay province, within the Apurimac region of Peru, and has a current population of some 70,000 people (info on Abancay). Because of its warm climate it is known as the ‘town of eternal spring’, and it does rain – it rained lightly last night & today, but at a temp of some 25degrees C daytimes, who cares! We see no other ‘tourists’ here at all, and no infrastructure for tourism. But the town is set in a beautiful valley surrounded by rolling hills, with several rivers running down to the valley floor. The central town area is flat, but the rest of the town climbs the hills & further valleys to the north, west & southwest. Couds cover the tops of the hills & uppermost parts of town in the mornings. We however, are finding it a struggle to do much uphill walking at this stage!