Todos Los Santos 2016 (All The Saints 2016) was a poster that caught our eye earlier in the week plastered around town, as it was the first sign of irreverance we’d seen in Cusco in relation to both the church & xmas. So we made it a date for Saturday night and rolled along around 10pm, hoping to catch some genuine Peruvian rock (punk, hip hop, experimental etc).
The event it seems is annual. The venue this year was at the Jabberwocky Proyect (crackbook page) in the San Blas neighbourhood. We’d paid it a brief visit earlier in the week, and found it had only just opened. It’s a kind of art/music/culture social space with a cafe, indpendently run (there’s a similar one in Lima), and legal it seems. The couple we spoke to when we passed by wouldn’t be drawn on any political aims, but it’s clearly located in the radical end of things.
The gig was none too busy at 10pm, maybe 40 people, and the band playing was nothing special, a kind of heavy metal dirge really. Entry was free though, and the bar cheap, so after the band we stepped into the yard area for a smoke and surveyed the scene. We seemed to be the only foreigners present, and probably the oldest, but nobody paid us much attention. We’ve been to thousands of events like this over the last 30+ years in similar venues, but never to one in Peru before…..so we got another beer in and went to see the next band (see band listing & links here on crackbook event page – we had no idea of which band was which).
This was more like it, faster & fairly furious, some political lyrics. Second song in was clearly known to some in the crowd and a small friendly (& mixed gender!) moshpit developed, as more people came in the door. A few were sporting shirts & jackets with symbols we’ve seen before, although of course the vast majority were young enough to be our kids! This was though one of the first gigs in a long while were we could stand near the back and still see over everybodys heads. This lot were followed by a 3 song hip hop & rap combo who were very sharp, then it was off for another smoke before the next band.
On the way outside we spied a couple of stalls at the back of the small bar room, and took a peak. Ah ha, one was a small radical info stall sporting a few things we’ve seen the like of before, excellent. The other was band cd’s & merch, hilariously somebody was flogging ‘never mind the bollocks….’ t-shirts! Back outside we ended up chatting to a friendly Euro couple who’d also come along. They’d been on the road for 15months, and in Cusco for a couple weeks longer than us, so we had an interesting chat, made even more so when they introduced us to a sharp young local woman (with excellent english). And so the night continued…we’ll no doubt come back to this venue again.